Yesa robe

Yesa robe (Chinese: 曳撒袍; pinyin: Yèsāpáo), also known simply referred as Yesa (Chinese: 曳撒), Yisan (Chinese: 曳撒), or Yisa (Chinese: 一撒), is an ancient type of Chinese clothing worn during the Ming dynasty.[1][2] It was originated in the Ming dynasty but was influenced from clothing of the Yuan dynasty.[1] It is sometimes described as being a sinicized version of the Mongol's jisün.[3] Yesa was a regular clothing in the Ming dynasty;[3] it was initially worn in the palace and by the wealthy, and it later spread to the commoners.[1]

Yesa robe
A modern yesa robe.
Chinese曳撒袍
Alternative Chinese name
Chinese一撒

History

Origins
See also: Fashion in Yuan dynasty

During the Ming dynasty, some clothing incorporated the clothing elements from the Han Chinese and the Mongol clothing tradition; one of those mixed-elements is the yesa.[4] The clothing known as yesa originated in the Ming dynasty, but some of its elements were either adopted from the Yuan dynasty Mongol's terlig,[1] or directly from the Mongol's jisün clothing which is also a form of terlig.[4] The yesa is itself a new evolution of terlig.[5]

Ming dynasty

The yesa robe is a form of kuzhe (Chinese: 袴褶; clothing with trousers for riding or military style clothing); however, the design of the yesa made it no more functional for horse riding.[5][6]

The yesa was worn as an informal attire by emperors, princes, ministers, and officials in their spare time during the early period of the Ming dynasty; it was worn as a formal uniforms in some occasions during the middle period of the Ming dynasty; it was worn as a casual dress worn by scholar-officials during the mid-to-late period of the Ming dynasty; and eventually it was worn by servants and commoners in the late Ming.[1]

The Ming court eunuchs wore yesa robe in different styles, such as the red-coloured yesa robes with a qilin patch, round-collared yesa robes, and light green yesa robe, etc.[1]

Construction and Design

The yesa robe is a cross-collared, long sleeved robe with narrow pleats on the lower hem; while the back of the lower part is flat, the front had two densely pleated sides with a flat middle.[1][5] It has two hems at each sides.[1][5] The sleeves and the bodice were wider compared to the Mongol Yuan's terlig and it had no waistband; the skirt was also longer.[5]

  • Jinyiwei Ming Dynasty.

Similar items

See also

References
  1. Wei, Luo (2018-01-02). "A Preliminary Study of Mongol Costumes in the Ming Dynasty". Social Sciences in China. 39 (1): 165–185. doi:10.1080/02529203.2018.1414417. ISSN 0252-9203. S2CID 149138176.
  2. "Ancient Chinese Robes for Men: Tieli & Yisan - 2020". www.newhanfu.com. 2020. Retrieved 2021-05-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  3. Wang, Chen (2014-09-01). "Conservation study of Ming dynasty silk costumes excavated in Jiangsu region, China". Studies in Conservation. 59 (sup1): S177–S180. doi:10.1179/204705814X13975704319154. ISSN 0039-3630.
  4. Wang, Guojun (2020). Staging personhood : costuming in early Qing drama. New York. ISBN 978-0-231-54957-8. OCLC 1129398697.
  5. Cho, Woohyun; Yi, Jaeyoon; Kim, Jinyoung (2015). "The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of theTerlig". Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae. 68 (3): 22–29. doi:10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2. ISSN 0001-6446.
  6. Finnane, Antonia (2008). Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation. New York: Columbia University Press. p. 45. ISBN 978-0-231-14350-9. OCLC 84903948.
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