Shoulder pads (fashion)

Shoulder pads are a type of fabric-covered padding used in men's and women's clothing to give the wearer the illusion of having broader and less sloping shoulders. In the beginning, shoulder pads were shaped as a semicircle or small triangle and were stuffed with wool, cotton, or sawdust. They were positioned at the top of the sleeve to extend the shoulder line. A good example of this is their use in "leg o' mutton" sleeves or the smaller puffed sleeves which are based on styles from the 1890s. In men's styles, shoulder pads are often used in suits, jackets, and overcoats, usually sewn at the top of the shoulder and fastened between the lining and the outer fabric layer. In women's clothing, their inclusion depends on the fashion taste of the day. Although from a non-fashion point of view they are generally for people with narrow or sloping shoulders, there are also quite a few cases in which shoulder pads will be necessary for a suit or blazer in order to compensate for certain fabrics' natural properties, most notably suede blazers, due to the weight of the material. There are also periods when pads intended to exaggerate the width of the shoulders are favored. As such, they were popular additions to clothing (particularly business clothing) during the 1930s and 1940s; the 1980s (encompassing a period from the late 1970s to the early 1990s); and the late 2000s to early 2010s.

Jazz singer Ann Hathaway, wearing a coat with shoulder pads, walking on Washington Square, New York, 1947

1930 to 1945

Shoulder pads originally became popular for women in the 1930s when fashion designers Elsa Schiaparelli and Marcel Rochas included them in their designs of 1931.[1] Though Rochas may have been the first to present them,[2] Schiaparelli was the most consistent in promoting them during the 1930s and '40s and it is her name that came to be most attached to them.[3][4] Both designers had been influenced by the extravagant shoulder flanges and small waists of traditional Southeast Asian ceremonial dress.[5][6] The following year, Joan Crawford wore them in the film Letty Lynton[7] in a dress designed by costume designer Adrian. This dress was widely copied and sold in Macy's department stores, helping to popularize the look.[8] Costume designer Travis Banton's broad-shouldered designs for Marlene Dietrich also influenced public tastes.[9]

Soon, broad, padded shoulders dominated fashion,[10][11] seen even in eveningwear[12] and perhaps reaching a peak of variety in 1935-36,[13] when even Vionnet showed them;[14][15] Rochas presented high, pinched-up shoulders;[16] and Piguet outdid even Rochas by extending his widened shoulders vertically like oars or paddles.[17] Amid all this competing extravagance, the widest shoulders were still said to come from Schiaparelli,[18] who hadn't given them up even when they briefly dropped out of favor with designers in 1933.[19]

War was in the air during this entire period, and fashion reflected it in epaulettes and other martial details,[20][21][22] but after World War II began in 1939, women's fashions became even more militarised.[23][24] Jackets, coats, and even dresses in particular were influenced by masculine styles and shoulder pads became bulkier and were positioned at the top of the shoulder to create a solid look that sloped slightly toward the neck.[25]

The shoulder-padded style had now become universal, found in all garments except lingerie, so standard that when US designer Claire McCardell wanted to remove them from her garments in 1940, her financiers feared their sales would suffer and insisted that pads be retained. McCardell's innovative response was to put them in with very simple stitching so that they could be easily removed by the wearer, prefiguring the flexibility of the velcro-fastened shoulder pads of the 1980s.[26] The following year, British designer Molyneux also eliminated shoulder pads,[27] part of a prophetic trend in high fashion that would be carried further by Balenciaga in 1945[28] and culminate in Dior's slope-shouldered 1947 Corolle collection.[29]

Big shoulders were still popular in 1945, when Joan Crawford wore a fur coat with wide, exaggerated shoulders, also designed by Adrian, in the film Mildred Pierce, but the popularity of shoulder pads with the public ultimately tapered off later in the decade, after the war was over and women yearned for a softer, more feminine look.[30] Square-shouldered coats, however, were still worn over natural-shouldered garments into the early 1950s.

In men's fashion, zoot suits had their own share of popularity. Basically, a zoot suit is based on a "regular" 2-piece suit, yet one or two sizes larger, so it was supposed to be padded "like a lunatic's cell."

During this period, stiff, felt-covered cotton batting was the material used for most shoulder pads, a combination that allowed for easy adjustment[31] but didn't hold its shape very well when washed.[32]

1945 to 1970

During the late 1940s to about 1951, some dresses featured a soft, smaller shoulder pad with so little padding as to be barely noticeable. Its function seems to have been to slightly shape the shoulder line.

By the 1950s, shoulder pads appeared only in jackets and coats—not in dresses, knitwear or blouses as they had previously during the heyday of the early 1940s. By the early 1960s, these slowly became less noticeable and midway through the decade, shoulder pads had disappeared.

1970s

Shoulder pads made their next appearance in women's clothing in the early 1970s, through the influence of British fashion designer Barbara Hulanicki and her label Biba. Biba produced designs influenced by the styles of the 1930s and 1940s, and so a soft version of the shoulder pad was revived. Ossie Clark was another London designer using shoulder pads at the time, showing forties-revival suits as early as 1968.[33] At the same time, a few Paris designers also presented padded shoulders with an explicit 1940s inspiration: Guy Laroche,[34] Michel Goma for Patou,[35] Valentino,[36] and Thierry Mugler[37] in 1971; Daniel Hechter in 1973;[38] Jean-Louis Scherrer in 1974;[39] and most notably Yves Saint Laurent in 1970 and '71.[40][41][42] Such a small, disparate scattering of designers showing the look didn't constitute more than a minor trend, one limited mostly to fashion groupies in Paris and London, and thus these padded shoulders never reached mainstream acceptance[43] – Saint Laurent's forties-revival attempts in particular were widely criticized,[44] and so the look was relatively limited in reach, with designers showing and the public preferring the relaxed, natural, often jeans-based clothing styles typical of the times.[45][46][47][48] Saint Laurent did show an occasional padded-shoulder jacket scattered among his popular ethnic and peasant looks during the mid-seventies, but sensibly-proportioned, easy, and contemporary in appearance instead of being part of a forties look.[49]

For fall 1978, designers in all fashion capitals would suddenly endorse wide, padded shoulders across the board, introducing the broad-shouldered styles that would characterize the 1980s.[50][51][52][53][54][55] There had been some signs of a move toward broader shoulders the previous year,[56] but it would be a January 1978 collection from Yves Saint Laurent that would be cited as the first clear expression of the trend when Saint Laurent showed a handful of padded-shoulder jackets over slim trousers.[57][58][59]

When most of the rest of the fashion world showed broad-shouldered looks a couple of months later, there would be two distinct versions of it. The first, favored by Paris designers like Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Pierre Cardin, Jean-Claude de Luca, Anne Marie Beretta, France Andrevie,[60] and a number of others, was an explicit but exaggerated 1940s-revival silhouette[61][62] based largely on tailored suits and dresses, though more a slim-skirted haute couture forties look than the flared-skirt, World World II Utility Suit-inspired shapes flirted with by Saint Laurent in the early seventies.[63] This first version was referred to as retro and included 1940s accessories,[64][65][66] some mid-20th-century sci-fi looks,[67][68] and military influences.[69][70]

The second was a more contemporary sportswear look in which shoulder pads were added to easy but slimmed-down casualwear, favored largely by US and Italian designers like Perry Ellis,[71][72] Norma Kamali,[73] Calvin Klein,[74] and Giorgio Armani.[75]

Most designers did adopt the new trend of padded shoulders, but a few prominent designers, Kenzo and Ungaro among them, refrained, at least at first. Kenzo mostly adhered to his popular, easy, comfortable clothes even during the shoulder-padded eighties,[76][77][78] but Ungaro would only resist the new trend for a season or two, during which he continued to show the easy, seventies Soft Look/Big Look,[79] before enthusiastically adopting big-shoulder styles in 1979[80] and making the look his signature the following decade.[81]

This time, the shoulder line was usually continuous from outer edge to neck, without the dip toward the center seen in the 1940s, and the pads used, even when enormous, were much lighter and held their shape better than the ones used in the 1940s,[82] now most often made of foam and other lightweight, well-shaped, moldable materials.[83] As shoulder pads hadn't been this common in womenswear in decades, some in the fashion industry worried that the tailoring skills necessary for them had been lost.[84][85][86] Initially, this big change from the natural shoulder of the sixties and seventies would seem extreme[87][88][89] (and it often was,[90][91][92] with Pierre Cardin[93] and Claude Montana[94] even showing pagoda shoulders), but subdued versions of the new line were accepted by the public[95][96] and the padded-shoulder look[97] was so strongly insisted on by designers starting in fall 1978 that by the mid-1980s it would be ubiquitous among women on the street.[98]

Standard, mass-market menswear during the 1970s continued to feature standard, unobtrusive shoulder pads shaping suits and sport jackets, but more high fashion menswear basically followed the same trajectory as high fashion womenswear, with a delay of about a season or two. Thus, there was a removal of shoulder pads and other internal structuring during the easy, oversized, unconstructed Big Look or Soft Look era of the mid-seventies,[99] spearheaded in womenswear by Kenzo Takada in 1973-74[100][101] and in menswear by Giorgio Armani a couple of years later.[102] When high fashion womenswear reverted to highly structured garments with big shoulder pads for fall of 1978, high fashion menswear followed suit the following year,[103] Cardin replicating his women's pagoda shoulders in his men's suits[104] and even Armani adding unusually pronounced shoulder pads to his men's jackets,[105][106] a trend that would continue during the following decade.

1980s

The early 1980s continued a trend begun in the late 1970s toward a resurgence of interest in the ladies' evening wear styles of the early 1940s, with peplums, batwing sleeves and other design elements of the times reinterpreted for a new market.[107][108][109][110][111] The shoulder pad helped define the silhouette[112] and continued to be made in the cut foam versions introduced in the fall 1978 collections,[113] especially in well-cut suits reminiscent of the World War II era. British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher was internationally noted for her adoption of these fashions, though they were already very common at the time.[114][115] Before too long, these masculinized shapes were adopted by women seeking success in the corporate world and became an icon of women's attempts to smash the glass ceiling, a mission that was also aided by their notable appearance in the TV series Dynasty.[116]

As the decade wore on, shoulder pads became the defining fashion statement of the era, known as power dressing and bestowing the perception of status and position onto those who wore them. Even the most exaggerated shoulder pad sizes from the fall 1978 introduction of the trend became accepted and even ubiquitous among the public by the mid-eighties.[117] Every garment from the brassiere upwards would come with its own set of shoulder pads, with women frequently layering one shoulder-padded garment atop another, a trend begun by designer Perry Ellis in 1978.[118] To prevent excessive shoulder padding, velcro was sewn onto the pads so that the wearer could choose how many sets to wear.[119] By the end of the era, some mass-market shoulder pads were the size of dinner plates, as large as the most exaggerated of the high fashion Thierry Mugler[120] and Claude Montana[121] pads shown at the fall 1978 start of the era.

1990s

The shoulder pad fashion carried over from the late 1980s with continued popularity in the early 1990s, but the wearer's tastes were changing due to the backlash against 1980s culture. Some designers continued to produce ranges featuring shoulder pads into the mid-1990s, as shoulder pads were prominent in women's formal suits, and matching top-bottom attire, highly exampled in earlier episodes of The Nanny from 1993 and 1994. But as the decade wore on, the styles were outdated and were shunned by young and fashion-conscious wearers. Appearances were reduced to smaller, subtler versions augmenting the shoulder lines of jackets and coats.

2000s and 2010s

The late 2000s and early 2010s saw the resurgence of shoulder pads. Many young women imitated pop artists, mainly Lady Gaga and Rihanna, who were known for their use of shoulder pads in their stylistic outfits. There was a large presence of shoulder pads on many runways, in fashion designer collections, and a revival of 1980s trends became mainstream among many people who were interested in them. By the 2009-2010 seasons, shoulder pads had made their way back into the mainstream market.[122] By 2010 many retailers like Wal-Mart had shoulder pads on at least half of all women's tops and blouses.[123]

The late 2010s saw another resurgence of shoulder pads. With the rise of the Me Too movement and other female empowerment movements, the increase of women being elected to political positions, and a continuing revival of 1980s trends, many are opting to wear clothes with shoulder pads.[124][125]

See also

References
  1. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 112. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Schiaparelli and Rochas introduced militaristic, wide shoulders, using shoulder pads for coats and jackets.
  2. Howell, Georgina (1978). "1930-1939". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 106. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. ...Marcel Rochas...is given credit for the first padded shoulders...
  3. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 112. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Schiaparelli...established the silhouette for several years to come.
  4. Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940-1947". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 167. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. ...Dior's [New Look]...had been preceded by thirteen uninterrupted years of the square-shouldered Schiaparelli-initiated look.
  5. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 112. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Both Rochas and Schiaparelli were influenced by the 1931 Exposition Coloniale in Paris, which showed wide-shouldered Javanese and Balinese costumes and Bangkok temple dancers with winged shoulders and tiny waists.
  6. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1934-1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 123. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. The Indo-Chinese costumes at the 'Exposition Coloniale' in Paris in 1931 inspired Schiaparelli and Rochas to imitate the extended shoulders by introducing shoulder pads.
  7. Amy De La Haye 1988, Fashion Source Book, London, Quarto Publishing, 69, ISBN 0-356-15928-0
  8. "Adrian, The Hatmaker's Son Who Dressed America - New England Historical Society". www.newenglandhistoricalsociety.com. Retrieved 2018-08-15.
  9. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1934-1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 123. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. ...[C]lothing designed by Travis Banton – broad-shouldered, outsized jackets... – was worn by Marlene Dietrich...[and] was widely copied.
  10. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1934-1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 122–123. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. ...[T]he mainstream daytime silhouette established by 1934 prevailed until the end of the war: a tightly waisted line with wide, if not padded, shoulders, and a straight, narrow skirt.
  11. Howell, Georgina (1978). "1932-33". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 132. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Focus on the raised waist, emphasized by widened, heavier shoulders... The architectural V from shoulders to small fitted waist...
  12. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 110. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Most evening dresses were...wide at the shoulders...
  13. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 141. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Everywhere wide shoulders hovered over tiny waists...
  14. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1935". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 139. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Even Vionnet, the queen of femininity,...widened her shoulders...
  15. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 142. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. High shoulders were favoured by Vionnet...Vionnet['s] shoulders stood square and high, with folded fullness at the top of the sleeves.
  16. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 142, 143. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. High shoulders were favored by...Rochas....Rochas's spring suit has stiff shoulders...
  17. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 142. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Piguet's were shaped like canoe paddles, rising nearly to the ears.
  18. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 141. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. ...Schiaparelli['s]...padded shoulders were the widest...
  19. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1933". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 120. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. The high point of the Paris autumn collections was the demise of shoulder padding – exaggeration was now démodé. Only Schiaparelli continued to pad her...shoulders. Her choice prevailed.
  20. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1935". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 139. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Europe bristled with war scares and...the couture reflected the prevailing mood. Shirred breastplates put a brave front on evening dress, crowns and cocks were printed on blouses, epaulettes broadened shoulders, and braid or frogging adorned almost every chest.
  21. Howell, Georgina (1978). "1935-36". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 141. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Daytime looks are severe and military, with square epauletted shoulders, frogging, plumed hats...Schiaparelli leads the military camp with regiments of fitted suits, drummer boy jackets and a forward 'putsch' of hats.
  22. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1938". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 151. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Schiaparelli's woollen capes with shoulders like an admiral's epaulettes, also seen in more modified versions at Alix and Molyneux.
  23. Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 179. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Suits ranged from the frankly military to the rather military...
  24. Manchester, William (1975-03-02). "Style is the Changing Woman". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2022-02-10. Then came the war...One popular evening gown of the period was adorned with a huge swooping Air Corps wing of gold Iamé, beginning at one hip and curving upward across the bosom to the opposite shoulder....[G]irls who had no intention of joining the Women's Army Corps wore copies of WAC hats decked out with sequins.
  25. Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. In the '40s, the shoulder shape was what [shoulder-pad manufacturer Harold] Lopato calls 'saddle-shaped,' or sloping in the center. The pads were rigid.
  26. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1940". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 158. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. When [Claire McCardell] insisted on removing shoulder pads, which had prevailed since the early thirties,...her backers...considered this uncommercial. McCardell arrived at a compromise: she tacked shoulder pads inside so that they could be easily removed.
  27. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1941". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 161. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Molyneux, like McCardell in America, removed shoulder padding...
  28. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 178–179. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Balenciaga...softened and dropped the shoulder farther than any other couturier...
  29. Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940-1947". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 167. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. [Dior's] New Look...arrived on 12 February 1947...Dior's...woman had soft neat shoulders...
  30. Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940-1947". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 167. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. [W]omen were eyeing clothes with passionate longing....[Dior's 1947] New Look provoked extremes of delight in women, for whom each dress and suit was an orgy of all things most feminine...Shoulders are gently natural.
  31. Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. ...Elizabeth Simmons, owner of Ardis School of Design[,]...recommends cotton batting-filled pads...because they are more adjustable.
  32. McEvoy, Marion (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2021-11-21. In the 40's,...shoulder pads were almost always made of stiff cotton batting and covered with felt....The pads looked great until the dress or coat was washed, in which case there were noticeable lumps and bumps.
  33. Howell, Georgina (1978). "1967-68". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 296. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Ossie Clark...turns to the recent past for fawn jersey tailored suits with square shoulders, a forties-through-sixties-eyes look.
  34. Morris, Bernadine (1971-01-28). "Givenchy: Elegance and More". The New York Times: 41. Retrieved 2022-03-18. ...Guy Laroche is concerned with the nineteen‐forties...[H]e made a big fuss over...broad-shouldered suits, bolero jackets, fluid crepe dresses with crepe capes á la Adrian and lots of other standards of that era.
  35. Morris, Bernadine (1971-01-28). "Givenchy: Elegance and More". The New York Times: 41. Retrieved 2022-03-18. The part of the nineteen-forties look that Michel Goma has taken to his heart at Patou is the wider shoulder. On the sheerer styles, you can even see the pads.
  36. Morris, Bernadine (1971-01-22). "Valentino Revivifies Fashions of 40's". The New York Times: 45. Retrieved 2022-03-18. If he doesn't bring back wide shoulders, toppers and the hip‐length vests that were called jerkins, he at least may spur the return of the big bands and the Lindy Hop.
  37. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1971". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 322. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Thierry Mugler showed his first collection in Paris, which concentrated on an angular, wide-shouldered cut reminiscent of the forties.
  38. Morris, Bernadine (1973-04-04). "Kenzo Displays His Imagination With a Fun-Filled Fashion Show in Paris". The New York Times: 38. Retrieved 2021-12-31. Daniel Hechter is popular with women in their twenties and thirties. Guess what he's up to? Padded shoulders on boxy jackets and pleated skirts. It's the kind of thing Yves Saint Laurent was hooted at for showing a couple of years ago.
  39. Morris, Bernadine (1974-07-23). "Paris for Fall: Listless Start and Why Revive the 40's?". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2022-01-24. [L]ast season, Scherrer was immersed in the nineteen‐thirties look. Now he's moved on to the forties. Joan Crawford, Rosalind Russell and all that. Squared shoulders. Padded turbans. Extravagantly beaded evening dresses. Again, glamour gowns for private clients. No guide to the future.
  40. Morris, Bernadine (1970-07-24). "Saint Laurent, Ungaro and Dior: Many Styles, No New Look". The New York Times: 37. Retrieved 2021-12-03. Yves Saint Laurent was good for a few laughs...An obvious tart...sashayed through the salon. She represented the spirit of the nineteen-forties....The first spurts of laughter were followed by nervous reflection....Was Saint Laurent making fun of the nineteen-forties – or the audience? Or was the whole collection one big parody of fashion?
  41. "Saint Laurent Retorts". The New York Times: 30. 1971-02-19. Retrieved 2022-01-11. Yves Saint Laurent's...World War II...look...in football shoulders and tight dresses...
  42. Morris, Bernadine (1971-02-02). "Now Why Are They Throwing Brickbats at Saint Laurent?". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2021-12-03. Yves Saint Laurent['s]...spring collection...recalled the terrible time of collaborationists in France, bombings in London and wartime austerity in the United States....The forties trend is...inescapable in the Saint Laurent clothes. His shoulders may not be the widest in Paris, but they seemed so.
  43. Hyde, Nina S. (1978-09-23). "Continuing the Aujard Collection". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-03-01. [In 1971, designer Michele Aujard] put huge shoulder pads in her clothes, she says, because that's what Yves Saint Laurent was doing. But the clothes never sold. 'Women just didn't like it,' she said.
  44. "Saint Laurent Retorts". The New York Times: 30. 1971-02-19. Retrieved 2022-01-11. ...[C]ritics...attacked [Yves Saint Laurent's] World War II floozy look...When his mannequins paraded like 1940s streetwalkers..., one critic cried 'hideous' and a...news magazine renamed him 'Yves St. Debacle.'.
  45. Morris, Bernadine (1973-04-16). "Some Hems Will Be Lower, But It's Not Worth the Worry". The New York Times: 47. Retrieved 2021-12-31. After a brief flurry of interest in shorts for day and evening wear in the spring of 1971 on both sides of the Atlantic, women everywhere settled contentedly into trousers for practically all occasions....Blue jeans became even further entrenched as the uniform of the young and experimentation was limited to different toppings for pants.
  46. Morris, Bernadine (1978-01-13). "Fashion: A Look at the Simple Truth". The New York Times: B4. Retrieved 2022-01-09. With a generation of office workers and executives going to work in T-shirts and blue jeans, formality in fashion was becoming a thing of the past....[I]t is possible for a woman to go anywhere, including black‐tie dinners, in a shirt and pants....Simplicity is the rule, and there's no need for a woman to clutter her closets with a lot of clothes...It is part of the simplification of life that comes under the heading of modernity. So is the fact that most clothes are soft and unstructured as well as interchangeable.
  47. Morris, Bernadine (1976-01-01). "70's Fashion: Sportswear at the Summit". The New York Times: 36. Retrieved 2021-12-10. [T]he 1970's will be marked by clothes divided into many easy pieces that can be added to or subtracted from, according to the weather, personal preferences and the feeling of the moment.... Construction will continue to be simplified so that clothes become increasingly less bulky and more flowing. The style of the 1970's is low on artifice, high on a natural look. Casual is the operative word.
  48. Mount, jr., Roy (1979-01-01). "Fashion". The New York Times: 18. Retrieved 2021-12-08. In the 1970's...[s]portswear emerged as the dominant theme, implying a relaxed fit and considerable versatility, since most clothes were made in interchangeable parts....For a number of years, it offered a serviceable way of dressing, geared to active women's lives, adjusting to vagaries of climate, adapting easily to travel requirements. As the sportswear onslaught continued, clothes lost their linings and interfacings, becoming softer, looser, less structured. Almost everything became as comfortable to wear as a sweater.
  49. Morris, Bernadine (1975-07-31). "Applause Meter Gets a Workout at Saint Laurent". The New York Times: 18. Retrieved 2022-03-18. ...[T]hey...joyously applauded a plain gray flannel coat with broad shoulders that wrapped over a pin‐striped tailored suit and a very full smock coat in gray flannel....They love him when he is making mannish tailored suits with padded shoulders...
  50. Larkin, Kathy (1979-01-01). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978. Crowell-Collier Publishing Company. pp. 249–252. In women's fashion, 1978 was a year of great change. It began with women submerged under layers of soft shapeless clothing...But the year ended with the same women shedding layers to emerge with a revamped fashion silhouette reminiscent of the 1940's, a look characterized by broad, even padded shoulders, tight waistlines, and shorter, straighter skirts....[D]esigners in Milan, Paris, and New York showed fall ready-to-wear collections that almost simultaneously reached the same conclusion....broad-shouldered fashions, the pared-down look of fewer layers, and the neater waist...huge shoulders, puffed sleeves to emphasize width further...[T]he fashion message was clear: Broad shoulders were in.
  51. Duka, John (1978-07-02). "Fashion Profile". The New York Times: SM6. Koko Hashim, vice president of Neiman‐Marcus [says]...'There has been an enormous change in the silhouette, a broadening of the shoulders and narrowing of the hips — what we call the triangle... — that requires a reeducation of the consumer'.
  52. Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1979-01-01). "Fashion and Dress (1978)". 1979 Britannica Book of the Year. New York, New York, USA: Encyclopedia Britannica. p. 378. ISBN 9780852293621. As fall approached, broader shoulders and slimmer hips conferred a trapezoid shape reminiscent of the 1940s...A major silhouette change in 1978 emphasized a broadened shoulder...
  53. Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Big Change Now". The New York Times: 226. Retrieved 2021-11-15. Fashion this fall has taken a dramatic new turn. Line, cut and shape are all controlled by the new wide shoulder.
  54. McEvoy, Marian (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. The return of shoulder pads is the big news this fall.
  55. Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-11). "Shaking Fashion". The New York Times: 30. What thousands of fashion followers are muttering as they crisscross [Paris] to see the new fashions for fall and winter...is 'shoulders, shoulders, shoulders'.
  56. Hyde, Nina S. (1977-10-24). "Thinking Big for Spring". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. These [1977 presentations of spring 1978] collections will give buyers and manufacturers the assurance to keep making these clothes and making them bigger. And often more broad-shouldered.
  57. "1978 Broadway Suit Collection". Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris. 'YSL's...mannequin...got ovations every time she sauntered out on the runway in another version of the spencer jacket'.
  58. "The Message from Paris Couture: The Tailored Suit is Back". The New York Times: 22. 1978-01-31. Retrieved 2021-11-12. ...[T]he shoulders of the jackets seem particularly exaggerated...
  59. Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Big Change Now". The New York Times: SM226. Retrieved 2021-11-15. Yves Saint Laurent — the most influential fashion designer in the world — is being credited with starting this fall's dramatic shift of silhouette....What Saint Laurent sprang on the fashion world last January when he introduced man‐tailored suit jackets with shoulders squared out with padding...has now become staple fashion in Italy, France and America. As if by magic, wider-shouldered and leaner‐lined clothes have shown up everywhere at every price level. Fashion has taken a new turn.
  60. Duka, John (1978-11-13). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. 11 (46): 112. Retrieved 2021-12-11. At Andrevie...shoulders were almost three feet wide.
  61. Hyde, Nina S. (1978-07-27). "YSL Reintroduces the Grand-Entrance Era". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Did you love the way your mother looked in the 1940s? If you did, you are in luck - because Yves Saint Laurent, clearly the strongest influence out of Paris, has designed a collection of haute glamour clothes for fall with roots in the Joan Crawford, grand-entrance era.
  62. "Peplums and Picasso". The Washington Post. 1979-07-26. Retrieved 2022-03-03. It is back to the history books if you care to comprehend what the Paris fashion designers are up to...[T]here is a heavy dose of the 1940s in the fall designs, with broad-shouldered suits with fitted bodices, tightly nipped waistlines, and peplums, plus a heavy injection of the early 1900s...
  63. Hyde, Nina S. (1978-07-27). "YSL Reintroduces the Grand-Entrance Era". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...YSL was on this kick in earlier collections, and now he's changed the silhouette slightly...
  64. Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1979). "Fashion and Dress". 1979 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1978. New York, New York, USA: Encyclopedia Britannica. pp. 378–379. ISBN 9780852293621. Designer after designer showed...the 'retro' look...of the 1940's....From the old days of Hollywood came puffed sleeves,...hats and veils,...rolled or pompadoured hairstyles of the 1940s,...seamed hose,...and even gloves.
  65. Hyde, Nina S. (1978-10-22). "Fashion Notes". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. The revival of the '40s look has brought with it the retro trappings of red lipstick, long gloves, stockings with seams and tiny hats with veils.
  66. Duka, John (1978-11-13). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. 11 (46): 112. Retrieved 2021-12-11. Lagerfeld...has brought back the Merry Widow corselet, whalebone stays and all.
  67. Duka, John (1978-11-13). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. 11 (46): 111–112. Retrieved 2021-12-11. On the Flash Gordon side of French ready-to-wear Retro are such designers as Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler, and France Andrevie....At Montana, it took the form of...Italian fascist gone science-fiction fantasy....At Mugler,...a big-shouldered Flash Gordon jacket...
  68. "Fashion View". The New York Times: SM6. 1979-12-30. Retrieved 2021-12-10. ...Claude Montana's Mongolian Martian Look and Thierry Mugler's Star Trekesque gigantic shoulders....
  69. Larkin, Kathy (1979). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978. Crowell-Collier Publishing Company. p. 252. Designers everywhere were also being influenced by the World War II era in another way, as clothes took on a military look....[A]ccessories like World War II infantry caps, military ribbons, and bandolier belts abounded.
  70. Morris, Bernadine (1978-07-14). "In America, Fashion as a Grace Note". Tne New York Times: C12. Retrieved 2021-11-12. Along with the giant pads came a kind of mindless toying with military looks...
  71. Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-06). "The New Look, Hit or Miss?". The New York Times: 58. Retrieved 2021-12-10. ...Perry Ellis’s breezy designs with exaggerated, almost pillow‐padded shoulders...
  72. Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-25). "Ellis Joins Blass in Fashion's Firmament". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2021-12-10. ...[T]he Ellis clothes...look absolutely comfortable and relaxed...Shoulders are padded...Mr. Ellis said he had no compunctions about adding padded coat to padded jacket to padded sweater.
  73. Duka, John (1978-07-11). "Norma Kamali is Heading Out on Her Own". The New York Times: C2. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Norma Kamali...has become famous for her parachute dresses, sexy, shirred bathing suits, pegged, draped skirts...and...padded shoulders.
  74. Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Big Change Now". The New York Times: SM226. Retrieved 2021-11-15. This fall, [Calvin Klein] narrowed [his clothes]...and added a bit of shoulder padding.
  75. Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-04). "In Milan, the Classic Prevailed Over the Romantic". The New York Times: 28. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Armani's...gift for fall is a long-jacket suit with military shoulders...It accompanies pants, skirts or culottes and it sometimes has epaulets....[S]oftening agents take the curse off the military look....It has broad, padded shoulders...
  76. Russell, Mary (1979-04-18). "Fashion/Beauty Fallout from Paris". The New York Times: SM19. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Kenzo goes his own humorous, playful way, creating amusing, young, almost 'toy' fashions.
  77. Hyde, Nina S. (1979-04-10). "Mickey and Minnie on the Paris Runway". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Kenzo...intended his showing of 'comic-strip' clothes to poke fun at the pretentiousness of his colleagues and the '[more-]couturier-than-thou' quality of their designs.
  78. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1981". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 377. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Kenzo's oversized tent shapes were belted and bloused.
  79. Morris, Bernadine (1978-02-18). "No More Skirting the Issue, Dresses Have Come Back". The New York Times: 28. Retrieved 2022-01-23. Emanuel Ungaro...has sent...advance hints of his styles for next fall....Ungaro uses [a brushed silk shirt] as part of a layering plan that involves a matching vest. a skirt in the same fabric but a blending print, and a couple of sweaters....But Mr. Ungaro hasn’t forgotten about dresses. One of the prettiest a loose style in flowery wool challis...
  80. Morris, Bernadine (1979-07-25). "Paris: A Peplum and Puffed Sleeve Revival". The New York Times: C16. Retrieved 2022-01-23. Ungaro['s] jackets had...peplums and...puffy shoulders.
  81. Donovan, Carrie (1985-03-31). "Fashion: Feminine Flourishes". The New York Times: 80. Retrieved 2022-03-09. Karl Lagerfeld..., Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchy...continued with their versions of the rather aggressive broad-shouldered silhouette...
  82. Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. In the '40s, the shoulder shape was what Lopato calls 'saddle-shaped,' or sloping in the center. The pads were rigid. Today the shoulder line is straight, says Lopato, and the pads soft and more pliable.
  83. McEvoy, Marian (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Today, shoulder pads are...often constructed of foam, nonwoven polyester filler, reprocessed cotton felt, ozite and sanforized or nylon thread...The result is a pad which retains its shape and doesn't disintegrate when washed....Average weight is about one ounce.
  84. Hyde, Nina S. (1978-11-10). "Beyond 'Retro'". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Nowadays, with fewer skilled cutters and tailors, and different fabrics, it just isn't possible or sensible to repeat an old style.
  85. Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-04). "In Milan, the Classic Prevailed Over the Romantic". The New York Times: 28. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Bergdorf Goodman's Leonard Hanken...remark[ed], 'We'll have to train a whole new generation of tailors to put in shoulder pads properly. It's a lost art'.
  86. Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. 'I'm giving more instruction on how to make and place shoulder pads,' says Elizabeth Simmons, owner of Ardis School of Design.
  87. Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Big Change Now". The New York Times: 226. Retrieved 2021-11-15. Saint Laurent['s]...man‐tailored suit jackets with shoulders squared out with padding...looked not only boldly aggressive but startling and totally unexpected...
  88. Hyde, Nina S. (1978-09-16). "Fall Fashion Blitz: The Show's the Thing for Washington Stores". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-03-27. The new broad-shouldered, retro-glamor clothes, military looks and black leather that most customers are seeing for the first time are considered quite shocking....Dorothy Vineburgh, an active volunteer in town, [says], 'No way will I wear those shoulder pads....I want to find something elegant and comfortable.' Richard Krolick, staff director of a congressional committee, wasn't quite so kind. 'It's like World War II!,' he said after one benefit this week. 'They have got to be kidding.'...[C]ustomers aren't loving all the clothes and the shows aren't generating large sales...
  89. Hyde, Nina S. (1979-04-11). "Not-So-Ready-to-Wear Clothes". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. ...[M]any [buyers] had trouble selling exaggerated shoulders...'I can't see women getting into cars with shoulders so broad,' said Wendall Ward, vice president of Garfinckel's...
  90. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1979". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 364. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. A hard, constructed, uncompromising silhouette prevailed: padded shoulders, sometimes three feet wide...
  91. Morris, Bernadine (1978-07-14). "In America, Fashion as a Grace Note". The New York Times: C12. Retrieved 2021-11-12. ...[S]houlder pads...big and bulky enough to grace the shoulders of Gargantua.
  92. McEvoy, Marian (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. [Shoulder pad manufacturer Harold] Lopato picks up what looks like a hunk of mattress stuffing...'This,' he pronounces proudly, 'is our three-inch-thick shoulder pad which we worked out with [designer] Bill Kaiserman.'
  93. Hyde, Nina S. (1979-10-21). "Fashion From Paris". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2021-12-19. [B]ig pagoda shoulders...were [Cardin's] favorite silhouette...last March.
  94. Taylor, Angela (1979-09-07). "Claude Montana's Space-Age Styles Touch Down on West 54th Street". The New York Times: A16. Retrieved 2021-12-18. [Montana's] shoulders...turned up at the ends, like pagoda roofs.
  95. Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-06). "The New Look, Hit or Miss?". The New York Times: 58. Retrieved 2021-12-10. [T]he new look took — mostly in the less extreme versions, but with a few surprises. Broader shoulders have been accepted, up to a point.
  96. Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. ...[A]s the exaggerated showpieces were translated into saleable styles – with the broadened shoulder tapering to the waist and hemline – women responded positively.
  97. "Autumn Inspirations, 1979". Couture Allure. 2013-08-05. Retrieved 2021-12-21.
  98. McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. ...[S]houlders [are] now [1985] proportioned to sports-page, rather than fashion-page, dimensions...Customers...don't seem to be bothered by the exaggerated shoulders. After all, they make the waist and hips look smaller.
  99. Hyde, Nina S. (1978-03-23). "Designers Say It's the Casual, Rumpled Look for Men this Year". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. Following the direction women's clothes have taken for the last two or three years, designers expect men to adopt a looser, freer, softer look in fashion...Changes include: Jackets with less inner construction, the built-in features that give a garment its shape. Instead, the clothes are supposed to take on the shape of the wearer and be comfortable, like a sweater. Softer, more loosely woven natural fabrics that allow jacket sleeves to be pushed up and collars turned up to underscore a more casual, even rumpled look. Clothes cut more loosely....American designers...refer to it as 'unconstructed'...
  100. Salmans, Sandra (1974-08-25). "Seventh Avenue". The New York Times: 96. Retrieved 2021-12-10. ...[T]he Big Look...was pioneered in Paris a year ago by Kenzo Takada...with absurdly large skirts and coats....[T]he look features long skirts, dropped shoulders, dolman sleeves and large armholes, blouson jackets, blowing capes, and loose dresses–all laid on with layers of fabric.
  101. Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1974". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 337. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Kenzo anticipated a major change this winter by creating a full, circular skirt, easily caught by the wind...The replacement of the short, kicky skirt by the longer, fuller style was the most important change in the silhouette...The new coat and cape shapes were also looser, fuller and longer – the hemline was anywhere from 3 inches below the knee to the ankle. This voluminous, unconstructed style was christened the 'Big Look'.
  102. La Ferla, Ruth (1990-10-21). "Fashion: Sizing Up Giorgio Armani". The New York Times: 55. Retrieved 2021-12-10. [Armani's] career has been punctuated by a series of radical gestures, beginning with the unconstructed blazer of the mid-1970's - his epochal creation....The blazer, a calculatedly rumpled affair, featured sloping shoulders, narrow lapels, baggy pockets and an attenuated line. More importantly, it was endowed with a mobility previously unknown in men's suit jackets, except on Savile Row. It had the kind of comfort found only in sports clothing, which he achieved in part by stripping out much of its cumbersome lining and padding.
  103. Alexander, Ron (1979-09-16). "Shoulder It, Men: Padding is Back". The New York Times: CN21. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Even men who shrug at fashion will probably find themselves in jackets with padded shoulders this fall. Broad shoulders are back...Calvin Klein['s]...shoulders are broad, not extreme, but there is definite padding....Pierre Cardin refers to his new silhouette as 'an upside-down triangle',...designing clothes with broader shoulders...Yves Saint Laurent...is building [shoulders] up again....Bill Kaiserman advocates...'strong but not extreme' shoulders....Lee Wright designs...clothing...inspired by the Italian V-silhouette...
  104. Machalaba, Nick. "Exclusive Archival Images from DNR [Daily News Record]: European Menswear". Women's Wear Daily. Fairchild Media. Retrieved 2021-12-18. A model poses in Pierre Cardin’s double-breasted suit with pagoda shoulders during the French men’s wear designer fashion show in New York on Oct. 8, 1979.
  105. Russell, Mary (1979-03-04). "Men's Fashion". The New York Times: SM19. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Armani's 1979 jackets are wide at the shoulder with a narrowing at the waist and low button closing.
  106. La Ferla, Ruth (1990-10-21). "Fashion: Sizing Up Giorgio Armani". The New York Times: 55. Retrieved 2021-12-10. At the end of the 1970's, Armani altered his style dramatically. Taking his design cues from Hollywood costumes of the 1930's and 40's, he widened the lapels of his suits and extended and padded the shoulders.
  107. Katan, V. "Women's Shoulder Pads". Retrieved 19 November 2015.
  108. Larkin, Kathy (1979). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978. Crowell-Collier Publishing Company. pp. 249–252. (see previous Larkin citation)
  109. Morris, Bernadine (1978-12-29). "This Season, Jackets Shape Up Shorter". The New York Times: A15. Retrieved 2021-12-08. Shoulders tend to be padded now or given greater width through puffs at the top of the sleeves...And the peplum jacket is reappearing...It's part of fashion's retro mood that...echoes...the 1940's.
  110. Morris, Bernadine (1979-04-10). "Impresarios of Fashion Preside at Les Halles". The New York Times: C12. Retrieved 2021-12-08. Karl Lagerfeld['s]...jackets have peplums that jut out from sharply belted waistlines.
  111. Morris, Bernadine (1979-07-25). "Paris: A Peplum and Puffed Sleeve Revival". The New York Times: C16. Retrieved 2021-12-08. The shape that Paris couturiers seem to have agreed upon for fall is the tightly fitted jacket with a small peplum...[w]ith puffed-top, leg-of-mutton sleeves
  112. McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 2021-12-08. ...Karl Lagerfeld pronounces, 'Shoulders are the roof of a house'.
  113. McEvoy, Marian (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2021-11-15. (see previous McEvoy citations)
  114. "Shoulder pads: A history". The Independent.
  115. "Style Icon: Margaret Thatcher". oxfordstudent.com.
  116. Amy De La Haye 1988, Fashion Source Book, London, Quarto Publishing, 170, ISBN 0-356-15928-0
  117. McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 2021-11-15. (see previous McColl citation)
  118. Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-25). "Ellis Joins Blass in Fashion's Firmament". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Mr. Ellis said he had no compunctions about adding padded coat to padded jacket to padded sweater.
  119. "Shoulder Pads". V&A Explore the Collections. Retrieved 2021-12-11.
  120. Morris, Bernadine (1979-04-09). "Paris Fashions Unveiled in Super Bowl Style". The New York Times: D8. Retrieved 2021-12-08. Montana and Mugler both pioneered the giant shoulder‐pad movement last year [1978]...
  121. McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 2021-11-15. As for Claude Montana, who is to big shoulders what Alexander Graham Bell is to the telephone, fashion is simple: 'Shoulders forever,' he says.
  122. "Poof! Shoulder pads puff back". New York Daily News.
  123. Glamour Magazine. "Trend Alert: Shoulder Pads Are Back!". Glamour.
  124. "Our Favorite Throwback Trend Has a History of Female Empowerment". Coveteur. 2019-04-04. Retrieved 2020-12-19.
  125. Kim, Leena (2020-11-09). "Long Live Alexis Carrington: Dynasty Shoulders Are Back!". Town & Country. Retrieved 2020-12-19.
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