Gwanbok

Gwanbok (Korean: 관복 Korean pronunciation: [goanbok]) is a Korean term for the Chinese term guanfu (冠服/官服).[1] The Gwanbok is a general term which refers to the historical official attire,[1] which was bestowed by the government, including by the ancient Chinese court.[2][3] Some forms of gwanbok were also decorated with a rank badge which is used to distinguish social hierarchies.

Gwanbok
Heuk dallyeongpo in the late 18th century
Korean name
Hangul
관복
Hanja
Revised Romanizationgwanbok
McCune–Reischauerkwanbok

History and development

The rulers, aristocrats, and the upper class in Korea's history adopted different kinds of foreign-influenced clothing, mostly from China's Tang, Song, Yuan, and Ming dynasties, while the commoners were less influenced by these foreign trends and indigenous aesthetic continued to be seen in their clothing.[4][5][6] Until Joseon dynasty, the Gwanbok system was largely influenced by the clothing system of other cultures, especially by the Han-Chinese ruled dynasties, the Khitan Liao dynasty, and the Jurchen Jin dynasty.[7] In Korea, whenever a new dynasty would be established, Korean rulers and his court would be bestowed official clothing from the Chinese emperors.[8] This ritual of Chinese Emperor bestowing official attire also included the official attire of the Korean Kings.[7]

Goguryeo

As Korea has become a tributary state to China since 32 AD, the royal attire have generally been designed in accordance to the Han Chinese clothing system.[9] One example is the ancient durumagi was introduced in Goguryeo; it originated from a long coat by Northern Chinese to fend against cold weather and initially worn by the upper class of Goguryeo for ceremonies and rituals.[10] The royal attire of the Goguryeo was called ochaebok.[10]

The dominance of the Chinese Han dynasty influenced the Korean peninsula; and Goguryeo and the smaller Korean states was bestowed clothing from the Han dynasty.[7] During the Han dynasty, Han Chinese ceremonial court clothing, along with other forms of clothing and caps were regularly bestowed to Goguryeo in large amounts through the Xuantu commandery by the Chinese.[11]

  • Reconstruction of Goguryeo king's and queen's attire. The royal attire were known as ochaebok.
  • A man, Goguryeo Anak Tomb 3.
  • A woman, a tomb mural of Goguryeo.

North-South States period and Goryeo dynasty

Goguryeo, influenced by the Chinese, also developed the ritual of bestowing attire to smaller entities: Goguryeo bestowed clothing to Silla, and Silla imitated the practice and would bestow clothing to the smaller states.[7] In the Silla period, the official clothing system of Tang dynasty was introduced into Korea in 647 AD by Kim Chunchu who had travelled to the Tang dynasty in China to voluntarily request for clothing and belts.[12][13][4][14] The dallyeong (단령; 團領) and the bokdu (복두; 幞頭) hat were the clothing which were assumingely brought back by Kim Chunchu under the reign of Queen Jindeok of Silla and became the attire of officials.[14][15] These gwanbok were the adaptation of the Tang dynasty's officials clothing.[4]

In Balhae, the official attire of civil and military officials were issued by the state. During King Mun's reign, Balhae started to integrate Tang dynasty elements, such as futou (幞頭) hat and dallyeong, in its official attire clothing.[16] The official attire of clothing in Balhae also stated to vary in colour based on the rank of the official; the colours worn were purple, red, light red, and green.[16]

In Goryeo, the gwanbok was typically influenced by the Tang and Song dynasty.[17] The dallyeong, which was introduced during United Silla period, continued to be worn as an outerwear of Goryeo officials and became part of the Goryeo's official attire.[15] However, the government officials continued to wear the jeogori (jacket) and baji (trousers) under their gwanbok; the wearing of baji and jeogori for men had become traditional clothing since the Unified Silla Kingdom.[17] The royalty and aristocrats of Goryeo also wore clothing and headgear which typically followed the Song dynasty official clothing; this can be observed in the Buddhist paintings of Goryeo era.[18]

The Kings of Goryeo was bestowed myeonbok and also received official attires from the Liao and Jin dynasties.[7] This ritual of bestowing attire was broken during the Mongol Yuan dynasty and only resumed in late Goryeo.[7] In an attempt to restore the practice of bestowing and receiving attire which they perceived as being non-contaminated by the Mongol cultural influences, King Gongming and King U of Goryeo voluntarily requested to be bestowed clothing from the Ming dynasty, which included their royal attire; thus recognizing the superiority of the Ming dynasty.[7]

Court clothing

In Joseon, the gwanbok was based on the China's Ming dynasty court clothing design,[9] however, Joseon clothing system started 2 ranks below that of China as Joseon was a vassal state while China was the suzerain.[19] Even after the fall of the Ming dynasty when the Chinese empire was no longer ruled by Han Chinese people, the rulers of Joseon did not regard the Manchu as the legitimate rulers of China and viewed the Joseon court as an heir of the Ming dynasty.[9] This belief was reflected in the Joseon gwanbok, which continued to show the Ming dynasty-based clothing design.[9] Even during the times of Emperor Gojong, he wore the highest formal, imperial dress of the Ming dynasty when he was enthroned.[9]

Wedding dress

The commoner men were only allowed to wear gwanbok on the day of their wedding.[20][21] The wedding gwanbok was usually deep blue or violet in colour.[20]

Types of gwanbok

There were several types of gwanbok according to status, rank, and occasion, such as jobok, jebok, sangbok, gongbok, yungbok, and gunbok. However, as the term in a narrow scope only denote the gongbok and sangbok, it means dallyeong, robe with a round collar.[21][22]

Gongbok

Gongbok (공복 公服, diplomatic attire)[19] was worn when officers had an audience with the king at the palace.

Jebok

The Jebok (제복 祭服, Ritual attire/robe)[19][3] was the gwanbok which was worn as the official mourning attire.[23] It was worn by civil and military officials when the King would hold memorial services at the Royal Ancestral Shrine where he would perform ancestor veneration ritual, called jesa.[23]

The robe was round-collared, large-sleeved gown which was made of black silk gauze; it was worn with jegwan (mourning cap), a red skirt, a girdle (dae), a bangshim-gokryeong (a ritual token which was attached to the round collar), a husu (a black apron with embroidery and tassels), leggings, Korean cottong socks, and low-sided shoes called hye.[23] The inner garment (joogdan) was made of white silk, the white neck band of the inner robe was visible under the Jebok.[23] A red apron was worn between the Jebok and the joogdan.[23]

Jeogui

Jeogui was worn by the queen, crown princess, the wife of the crown prince's son and other women of legitimate royal lineage; it was a ceremonial robe. it was worn from the time of King Gongmin of Goryeo to the time of King Yeongchin in 1922.[24]: 130 

Jobok

The jobok (조복 朝服, court attire/robe)[19][3] is a form of gwanbok.[25] It was the official court attire for the high-ranking military and civil officials; they wore it when they would meet with the King and was worn for important ceremonies.[25] Examples of special occasions were the national festivals, or announcement of royal decrees.

The Jobok consisted of a wide-sleeved, red silk gauze robe which was worn over a blue inner robe; a red apron was worn in the front of back.[25] On the back, there was a husu, i.e. a rectangular-shaped embroidered insignia.[25] To indicate the rank of the officials, officials wore geumgwan; the geumgwan had gold stripes which would mark its wearer's rank.[25]

Sangbok

Sangbok (상복 常服, official uniform)[19] was worn as a daily official clothing.

Yunbok

Yungbok was related to military affairs.

  • Gwanbok in the Goryeo period, 11th century.
  • Gwanbok in the Goryeo period, 14th century.
  • Gwanbok in the 15th century
  • Gwanbok in the 17th century
  • Geumgwan Jobok in the late 18th century
  • Sibok in the late 18th century
  • Gwanbok in the 19th century

See also
  • Guanfu

References
  1. Kyu, Choi Eun; Jin-Han, Lee; 김규록 (2018). "「『高麗圖經』譯註」(8) －권7, 「冠服」편을 중심으로－". The Journal for the Studies of Korean History. The Society for the Studies of Korean History. 72: 251–296. ISSN 1229-6252 – via DSPACE Repository.
  2. 강순애. "月沙 李廷龜의 冠服奏請 陳奏正使와 관련된 送別 기록 연구". 서지학연구 (in Korean). 69: 15–48. ISSN 1225-5246.
  3. Lee, Min Jung (2015). "Investiture of King and Bestowment of Robe and Crown in the Early to Middle of Goryeo Dynasty". Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 39 (1): 133–146. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2015.39.1.133. ISSN 1225-1151.
  4. Condra, Jill (2008). The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history. Jill Condra. Westport, Connecticut. p. 223. ISBN 978-0-313-33662-1. OCLC 156808055.
  5. "2. Clothing – The Influence of Chang-An Culture to Korea and Japan". you.stonybrook.edu. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  6. Yunesŭk'o Han'guk Wiwŏnhoe (2005). Korea Journal. Vol. 45. Korean National Commission for UNESCO. p. 125.
  7. 김윤정 (2020). "고려후기 사여관복(賜與冠服) 행례와 예제(禮制) 질서의 형성". 역사와현실 (in Korean). Retrieved 2021-05-30.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  8. Kim, Jung-Sook; Christensen, Barbara (1978). "Costumes of Korean women with emphasis on the Yi dynasty" (PDF). Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing Eastern, Central, & Western Regional Meetings: 155 – via International Textile and Apparel Association [Web].
  9. Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia. Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong. Cham, Switzerland: Springer. 2018. p. 116. ISBN 978-3-319-97199-5. OCLC 1059514121. Archived from the original on 2018.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  10. Lee, Samuel Songhoon (2013). Hanbok : Timeless fashion tradition. Han'guk Kukche Kyoryu Chaedan. Seoul, Korea. pp. 14–15. ISBN 978-1-62412-056-5. OCLC 944510449.
  11. Seyock, Barbara (2014). "Memories from Abroad: Han 漢 Chinese and Nomadic Heritage in Korean and Japanese Archaeological Contexts" (PDF). Studies on the History of Exchange Relations in the East Asian World. 9: 5–43.
  12. 김부식 (1145). 삼국사기 (三國史記) (in Korean). Retrieved 2014-11-07. 新羅之初, 衣服之制, 不可考色, 至第二十三葉法興王, 始定六部人服色尊卑之制, 猶是夷俗, 至眞德在位二年, 金春秋入唐, 請襲唐儀, 太宗皇帝詔可之, 兼賜衣帶, 遂還來施行, 以夷易華, 文武王在位四年, 又革婦人之服, 自此已後, 衣冠同於中國
  13. Pratt, Keith L. (1999). Korea : a historical and cultural dictionary. Richard Rutt, James Hoare. Richmond, Surrey: Curzon Press. p. 106. ISBN 978-0-7007-0464-4. OCLC 42675362.
  14. Yu, Ju-Ri; Kim, Jeong-Mee (2006). "A Study on Costume Culture Interchange Resulting from Political Factors" (PDF). The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 30 (3): 458–469.
  15. The National Folk Museum of Korea (South Korea) (2004). Korean Costumes through the Ages: Commemorating the Centennial of Korean Immigration to the United States. 길잡이미디어.
  16. A new history of Parhae. John B. Duncan, Tongbuga Yŏksa Chaedan, Tongbuga Yo⁺їksa Chaedan. Leiden: Global Oriental. 2012. pp. 132–136. ISBN 978-90-04-24299-9. OCLC 864678409.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  17. Kyu-Seong, Choi (2004). "A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty". The Research Journal of the Costume Culture. 12 (6): 1060–1069. ISSN 1226-0401.
  18. A Companion to Korean Art. Burglind Jungmann, Dana Arnold, J. P. Park, Juhyung Rhi. Wiley. 2020. p. 192. ISBN 9781118927045.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  19. Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia. Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong. Cham, Switzerland. 2018. p. 48. ISBN 978-3-319-97199-5. OCLC 1059514121.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  20. Joinau, Benjamin (2015). Sketches of Korea : an illustrated Guide to Korean Culture. Elodie Dornand de Rouville. Irvine, CA: Seoul Selection. ISBN 978-1-62412-051-0. OCLC 1088352561.
  21. "Veteran Korean Designer Enchants Smithsonian Museum". Chosun Ilbo (English Edition). 2007-05-18. Archived from the original on 2007-10-09. Retrieved 2007-11-29.
  22. 관복 (官服) (in Korean). empas/Encykorea. Retrieved 2007-11-29.
  23. Lee, Samuel Songhoon (2013). Hanbok : Timeless fashion tradition. Han'guk Kukche Kyoryu Chaedan. Seoul, Korea. pp. 55–58. ISBN 978-1-62412-056-5. OCLC 944510449.
  24. Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean clothing. Vol. VI (English ed.). Seoul: National Folk Museum of Korea. 2021. ISBN 9788928902873.
  25. Lee, Samuel Songhoon (2013). Hanbok : Timeless fashion tradition. Han'guk Kukche Kyoryu Chaedan. Seoul, Korea. pp. 53–55. ISBN 978-1-62412-056-5. OCLC 944510449.
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